Fashion brands today work according to their own clockwork, as the concept of “seasonal” has been reduced to an elusive notion. This pre-fall bridges elements from Jil Sander’s spring and fall collections, yet following the laws of retail, it hits shop floors now, coinciding with this review. If you’d compare this timeline, say, with Netflix, it’s as if you were watching a series where the halfway point goes live well after the beginning and the end have been revealed. But this is fashion’s rather elastic playbook, where each label dictates its own set of rules.
At a showroom appointment, the Meiers explained that this prequel anticipated their fall 2024 exploration of elegance; the thread seemed rather consistent, as there’s always a flair for the refined and a certain polish to what they’ve brought to Jil Sander. Smoothing hard-edged minimalism with an appreciation for honest craft and a sensual touch of couture is what they’re after. Here this yin-yang tension could be traced in sharp-shaped tunics softened by cape sleeves undulating with a graceful movement, or in streamlined cardi-coats with slit sleeves revealing the bare skin of arms, or else in inflated puffer ensembles, round-shaped and protective yet made in handsome dry checkered wool, which toned their sporty character down with a more urban attitude. Engineered pieces for both women and men blended craft and technology, one of the Meiers’ favorite dichotomies, giving the utilitarian an elevated look. Soft-padded, spongy knitwear and the indulgence of double-faced cashmere throughout made the case for the high-end “enveloping feeling” they were keen on highlighting.
Sophisticated jewelry gave an ornamental twist to the purist Jil Sander silhouette. Pearls were embroidered across a guy’s black tabard, while the V-neckline of a boxy knitted jumper was encrusted with geometric metal shards. Without losing a sense of edge or looking too diluted by wardrobing concerns, both collections conveyed a quotidian vibe. “We want to see people actually wearing what we’ve designed; while we’ve kept some challenging elements, it isn’t only about image; it has to be both exciting and relevant for today.”
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