For resort, Yigal Azrouël dabbled in an array of ’80s-inspired colors and silhouettes that harkened back to his youth. Purple silk pajamas (patterned with abstract florals photographed by his friend Erez Sabag), an aqua jumpsuit made of Japanese satin, and a featherweight maroon trench coat all drew direct inspiration from this era.
Venturing into color required Azrouël’s utmost consideration. He sought to create a high level of contrast between the rusty reds and oceanic blues, and handpicked his purple hues to coordinate with the maroon. He likens the creative process to his cooking philosophy: never use a recipe. “It’s like how I cook. I don’t have ingredients. If I have ingredients, it’s boring. I like to surprise myself,” he said.
Despite his commitment to experiment this season, don’t expect Azrouël to abandon his signatures—particularly his fondness for black and white. A tailored black leather trench coat with white contrast piping was a highlight of the collection. (The inverse colorway immediately draws to mind Elle Driver’s trompe l’oeil Moschino coat in Kill Bill.) He also returned to his stalwart draped pieces; one standout was a floor-length, cherry red dress, whose drapery resembled a Greek statue. When crafting the more sensual pieces in the collection, Azrouël wanted them to look as though they could fit right into a Helmut Newton photograph. “They’re feminine, but very strong women,” he said of Newton’s subjects. One could also say the same about his own clientele.
Source link
